In the late 1800's women usually only owned two dresses. When you realize that one dress took almost 13 yards to make it's easier to understand why pinafores (aprons that covered from the neck to the knee or sometimes longer) were so very popular.
A pinafore usually consisted of a square piece of material on the bottom that had been gathered into a waistband, and a top piece, (square, heart shaped, or round) that was sewn into the waistband.
In Wilhelmina Beth, Women of the Drifting Anchor Ranch, Chapter Three; Beth's Mother, Lucille Bond gives each of her three daughters a new pinafore that she has sewn for them. She then promises to teach each of them how to make one.
The instructions that follow are for a pinafore apron comparable to what women wore in that time period. The fabrics that were used were mostly either cream colored muslin, gingham, or calico. Some women knitted or crocheted lace to adorn their pinafores and make them prettier. This pattern will be quite basic. On the other hand I will give a simple, moderate, and difficult adaptation so that you can make the pattern according to your personal level of expertise.
I also realize that unlike most women in the mid to late 1800's you probably have access to a sewing machine. I enjoy sewing by hand sometimes. It does remind me of a simpler time. Yet sometimes it's necessary to use a sewing machine to do things quickly.
SIMPLE DIFFICULTY
MATERIALS NEEDED: 1. A three yard piece of fabric. (Fabric was usually only 36 inches wide during that time) 2. A two yard piece of fabric (that meant it was two yards squared) 3. Six yards of ribbon, either satin or grosgrain. Sewing needle and thread to match the pinafore.
SKIRT OF THE PINAFORE: 1. Take seventy two inches square (2 yards) of fabric and gather it all with a very loose hand stitch. This can be done by stitching in and out, in and out of the fabric (like the folds of an accordian fan). 2. Hem the raw edges of the skirt just as you did to the top of the pinafore.
TOP OF THE PINAFORE: 1. Cut out a square of fabric that is thirty six inches (1 yard). 2. Turn under the raw edge of the fabric by sewing a tiny locked stitch. (In and out and then pass through that loop to create a lock knot).
WAISTBAND OF THE PINAFORE: 1. Buy 3 yards of grosgrain, or satin ribbon. (Sometimes they would re-use a ribbon from something else, an old dress, hat, etc.) 2. Attach the ribbon to the gathered fabric of the bottom of the pinafore with a locked stitch (in and out, making a loop with the thread). 3. Attach the ribbon to the bottom of the upper part of the pinafore with the same locking stitch.
TOP STRAPS OF THE PINAFORE: 1. Using the ribbon left after making the waistband, attach one end of the ribbon to the outside edge of the pinafore top. 2. Stitch it securely to that position, with the stitching done on the wrong side of the fabric. 3. Next stitch the other end of the ribbon to the other outside edge of the top. 4. Cut the end of the ribbon in a slant. 5. You secure the finished apron top by tying it in a bow behind your neck.
MODERATE DIFFICULTY
Follow the same instructions as above only this time cut a circle pattern out of a large piece of butcher paper. Using the pattern cut out a circle for the top of the pinafore. Then follow the above instructions.
MOST DIFFICULT
Take a large piece of paper and make a giant heart pattern. Cut out two hearts. Put the material right sides together. Sew from the bottom around the top and down again to the bottom leaving a 3 inch gap at the bottom to turn the heart right side out and then attach the bottom unsewn portion to the waistband of the pinafore.
You can also make straps by sewing right sides together of long pieces of material and then turning them and using them instead of ribbon.
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